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THE INSIDER by A&K Southeast Asia December 2019
In our final issue of 2019, we highlight one of most memorable and indulgent things to do in Southeast Asia – afternoon tea. We chat with a top Vietnamese chef who has developed a loyal following in Hoi An and around the world, share how "we do" 48 hours in Phnom Penh and uncover the true spirit of Balinese rice fields, which I encountered firsthand on my recent visit.
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And a few words from our guests:
“All we can say is WOW! Myanmar is a hidden gem, from the nicest people to the incredible food and of course the sites. Our guide was the best we have ever had! Her hospitality, knowledge and sheer kindness made our trip the best. Truly a life changing experience. Thank you, A&K for everything.”
Mr. & Mrs. T.J., United States
48 Hours in Phnom Penh: Tuk Tuks, Boats and Automobiles
Cambodia is so much more than just Angkor Wat. Just a few hundred miles south along the Tonle Sap River, hidden treasures are abound in the nation’s capital, Phnom Penh – a city that effortlessly blends contemporary lifestyle with centuries of history, culture and the arts. Here’s our Insider’s guide to the best 48 hours in this remarkable city.
Day 1
10:30 – A Walk Through Time
Take a stroll along the city’s widest boulevard, where the French left their architectural footprint on every corner. See the towering statue of the late King Norodom Sihanouk, founding father of modern-day Cambodia, and learn about how a humble fishing village was transformed into a nation’s capital.
12:30 – Living Cambodian Cuisine
For lunch, head over to Malis restaurant where Chef Luu Meng dishes up beautifully-prepared traditional recipes in a romantic outdoor setting with water features set and a giant Buddha. Enjoy the green mango salad tossed with smoked fish or the handpicked Kampot crab in a red curry broth.
14:00 – Made in Cambodia
Get in amongst the locals and ride on the back of a moto to experience some of the city’s best shopping. Stop by Cambodia Creations to pick up some fair-trade and zero-waste fashion including ethical, handcrafted pieces from home-grown brand, tonlé, while exploring the artistic street of 178 and the boutiques of Street 240.
19:00 – Khmer Nights
When the sun sets, the city comes alive with energy and vibrancy. Get the night started with sundowners at a chilled out rooftop bar. Then get whisked away by tuk tuk to a chic restaurant tucked down one of Phnom Penh’s back alleys. Whet your appetite with local tapas before continuing to another popular spot for a Cambodian barbecue feast and locally-brewed beer. End the night with drinks at Bassac Lane or try one of our favorite hidden speakeasies where the entrance is disguised as a Coca Cola machine and the cocktails are well-crafted.
Day 2
07:00 – Good Morning Cambodia!
See another side of the city when you sit down with locals at a bustling street-side stall and chow down on traditional breakfast treats like bobor (Cambodian rice porridge) or num banh chok (rice noodles topped with a cool fish gravy and crisp raw vegetables).
12:00 – Lunch with Purpose
Dine at Romdeng restaurant, where Cambodian youths from underprivileged backgrounds serve delicious regional specialties in a charming colonial villa. The pomelo salad with shrimp, topped with mint and bird’s eye chili is one of our favorites, while the fragrant chicken soup with straw mushrooms and preserved limes is always a crowd-pleaser.
14:30 – Mekong Moments
Escape the hustle and bustle of the city and venture into the surrounding countryside with a relaxing boat ride to the islands of the Mekong. See traditional fishing families on their house boats and cycle through a local village, passing pagodas and orchards and learning about their silk weaving tradition along the way.
17:00 – Evening with a Chef
Visit a traditional wooden Khmer house where you are welcomed by the Chef. Enjoy an evening full of flavor as a passionate cook, food writer and advocate of traditional Khmer recipes takes you on a culinary journey with a sumptuous tasting menu focused on traditional recipes.
For more ideas and recommendations for Phnom Penh or other Southeast Asian destinations, contact our team of in-the-know Destination Specialists.
Bali’s Rice Culture: The Way of the Spirit
“From the lush, emerald rice fields to the dark green tropical forests, we were surrounded on all sides by every shade of green,” our Regional Managing Director, Belinda Shillcock, described her recent visit to Tegalalang on the island of Bali, Indonesia. “Here, growing rice is not just about agriculture and production, it is part of the spiritual fabric of the island, a way of being.”
The rice fields of Bali are UNESCO World Heritage-listed not only for their beauty, but also for their intrinsic cultural value which is deeply ingrained in the island’s religious tradition. Dating back to the ninth century, the fields are centered around a temple and presided over by a priest following an ancient Balinese wisdom known as Tri Hita Karana – a balance of the natural world, the spiritual world and the human world.
Walk the fields with a Balinese priest to gain a more in-depth understanding of the subak irrigation system and the spiritual philosophy that governs it. See beyond the picturesque façade and embrace the spiritual atmosphere, learning how the sacred water flows from the temple to the paddy fields, providing an abundance of rice as a gift from the gods.
Our Top 5: Afternoon Teas in Southeast Asia
Sometimes you just need to take a break and what could be better than indulging in a decadent Southeast Asian afternoon tea? In the cosmopolitan Asia of today, high end hotels, restaurants and cafés across the region have adopted this old British pastime and made it their own. From the traditional to the decadent and the quirky, here are our Top 5 picks for afternoon tea in Southeast Asia.
1. Oriental Traditions in Bangkok, Thailand
With cucumber ricotta cannelloni, chicken curry puff pastry or freshly-baked mango scones, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok offers an enticing array of Thai-inspired nibbles and is one of our favorite afternoon teas in Bangkok, Thailand. Complete with white wicker furniture and carved wooden door and window frames, the Authors’ Lounge oozes period British charm - the perfect setting for an old-world experience.
2. Something Special in Hanoi, Vietnam
For something a little extra, we can’t miss Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi where you can enjoy one of the richest and most memorable afternoon teas imaginable. Served in the hotel’s elegant Le Club Bar, this indulgent experience is enriched with an endless supply of everybody’s favorite ingredient - chocolate - and lots of it! The “Chocolate Library,” as it is called, features Vietnam-grown cocoa in its various forms, from pralines, éclairs, mille-feuille pastries macaroons and more!
3. Colorful Khmer Treats in Siem Reap, Cambodia
Sparkling silver teapots and three glorious tiers of cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches, smoked salmon tartines and beautifully-baked scones are the hallmarks of Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor’s afternoon tea. The colorful creations are beautifully presented in the colonial-style conservatory and come with an interesting Khmer twist, including Cambodian-style delights such as spicy prawns, chicken satay skewers and wontons.
4. Art and Tea in Yangon, Myanmar
As the center of a former British colony, Yangon, Myanmar, is certainly no stranger to the afternoon tea concept. For a classic experience, it’s hard to beat the elegance of the Strand Café. But for something a little different, head over to Belmond Governor’s Residence for Art’ernoon Tea – a creative marriage of art and afternoon tea served in a beautiful 1920's teak mansion. Burmese delights come with views of the hotel’s manicured gardens inhabited by peacocks, ducks and geese, and an exhibition of paintings by local artists.
5. The House of Tea in Bali, Indonesia
One of the best afternoon teas in Bali, Indonesia is Biku Bali, a 150-year-old Javanese wooden house that offers a fine selection of over 50 of the world’s best teas, sourced from places like China, India and Indonesia. The hard part is deciding whether to have the traditional tea of classic cucumber, cream cheese and salmon sandwiches, sweet treats and freshly baked scones or the Asian tea with regional nibbles such as samosas with chutney, Vietnamese spring rolls, Indonesian steamed cakes and date scones with mango jam. Delicious!
At Home with Vietnamese Culinary Master, Chef Duc
Vietnam was just named Asia’s leading culinary destination at the World Travel Awards. So we caught up with our friend and one of our favorite Vietnamese chefs, Chef Duc of Mango Mango restaurant in Hoi An, to get his take on what he loves most about his nation’s food.
Q: You have such a fascinating background, having traveled the world! Tell us a bit about how you started out as a chef?
A: After growing up in Ho Chi Minh City during the war, my parents helped me escape from Vietnam. I got on a boat and ended up in Malaysia at a refugee camp. From there, I was taken in by a Mexican-American family and lived with them in Texas for two and a half years. I was then fortunate enough to complete college and started work as an engineer. But the office environment didn’t suit me, so I quit. I always loved to cook, so it was a no-brainer to start working in the kitchen. I started out washing dishes and slowly worked my way up.
Q: What is the inspiration for your cooking?
A: My mother is my inspiration. As a kid, I always helped out on the farm, raising ducks, chickens, pigs and catching fish from the pond. I experimented with food at the refugee camp. The food there was so terrible, I tried to make it less terrible by bombarding it with spices and cooking the hell out of it. Then when I met my Mexican mother, she always cooked and I learnt a lot from her as well.
In Texas, I worked at a Vietnamese restaurant, which was a great, eye-opening experience. I re-learned a lot of things about Vietnamese food from the chef and built on that when I came back to Vietnam and started cooking with my mum and my sister.
I’ve been able to travel around the world, from South America to Spain, Portugal and Japan. Everywhere I go, I always go to the market and check out the local ingredients. For me, cooking is all about the fresh ingredients and balancing the flavors.
Q: How would you describe your style of cooking?
A: I cook my food. It’s my knowledge and my experience - colorful, rich in texture and full of flavor. I can switch between Mexican and Vietnam cuisine in one dish, then I might borrow something that I picked up from my travels to Japan or Australia.
In Hoi An, we have access to such good food. We have lemongrass, cilantro, tomatoes, lime - all grown locally, and fish sauce and sugar cane produced nearby. There’s a family just down the road that have chickens, so we get fresh eggs from them every day. Some we use at home and the rest we use at the restaurant. There’s a bakery nearby and a market with seafood, prawns and fish. The fishermen sometimes call me early in the morning to tell me about their catch of the day and I’ll tell them to put it on ice and I’ll go pick it up. Good, fresh food is bountiful here.
Q: What is your favorite dish to cook and what is your secret to making it?
A: Seafood hotpot. It’s simple, but delicious. You get red snapper, prawn, squid, calamari from the market. Keep the fish head and bones as well as the prawn heads – they go into the stock. Then it’s a matter of balancing the five flavors – add onions for bitterness, tamarind for sourness, sugar and pineapples for sweetness, fish sauce and umami for saltiness and a bit of chili for spice.
Then throw in some vegetables – anything you like - morning glory, spicy mustard, taro, mushrooms, bean sprouts, tomatoes and lots of herbs, like lemongrass and cilantro. If you like your vegetables soft, then you can keep it in the pot. But if you like them more al dente, then just put it in for 10-15 seconds, until they’re wilted, then take them out. It’s that simple!
Q: What can we expect from Chef Duc in the future?
A: I have lots of ideas. We have started discussions about developing a Mexican restaurant here in Hoi An. Even though we’re in Vietnam, we have good ingredients here, so we can make good Mexican food. I’ve practicing making tortillas - real Mexican tortillas in Vietnam! That should be open in about a year.
Taste Chef Duc’s unique culinary creations in Hoi An and be inspired at his restaurants, Mango Mango, Mai Fish and Mango Rooms, or discover more foodie adventures in Vietnam with your A&K Destination Specialist.
More INSIDER News from Around the Region
● Alaine Ducasse, the French culinary whiz who has collected 21 Michelin stars in total, will open his first restaurant in Bangkok, Thailand - Blue by Alain Ducasse will launch by the end of this year. Stay tuned for more details!
● Three Bangkok restaurants recently achieved new Michelin star status, including progressive Thai restaurant 80/20, modern street food restaurant Table 38 and refined Thai eatery Khao. At the same time, two restaurants achieved double-star honors – R-Haan, serving royal court-style cuisine, and Sorn, Southern Thai fine-dining.
● UNESCO recognized Hanoi, Vietnam and Bangkok, Thailand among 66 Creative Cities in 2019, highlighting these cities’ contribution to sustainable development through innovative design. Discover Bangkok’s Creative District and Hanoi’s Sustainable Crafts on your next A&K journey.
● Rosewood Yangon is now in soft opening, offering a new luxury option in the heart of the city with bookings now available through A&K Myanmar.
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